These past few days were amazing, especially for a history buff, a veteran, and an outdoorsman. I had the opportunity to hike, explore military history and tactics, and the photo ops were spectacular. The Professor leading our trip told my fellow hiker and I that we had tackled a trail that only two others he has led into the Holy Land had tackled. It was less of a footpath and more of a climbing ascent. We looked back on the mountain and were so proud of ourselves! I even found a piece of pottery (not sure if it was Byzantine, Roman, etc but it was definitely a great find!) at the summit. We hiked the goat paths where David hid from Saul and it was amazing to think about the evasive tactics and guerrilla warfare in which the two engaged. The story came alive for me! David was like an action movie star, yippy ki yay, Saul! I couldn’t wait to blog about it!
Then today we started out our day at Qumran, the location of the caves where the Dead Sea scrolls were located. We discussed the apocalyptic texts. The anticipation of the people of Qumran (the Essene) in awaiting on a savior to lead the children of light against the children of darkness. Awaiting a leader to defeat evil and the Roman empire. After visiting the goat paths in which David led a small devoted army I realized why they too envisioned the same action movie star I did, except they were awaiting the return of this figure.
After visiting Qumran we entered a strictly controlled checkpoint guarded by Israeli soldiers which led to the Israeli/Jordanian border. It was the Jordan river, specifically the Byzantine site, which the Byzantine believed was the site of Jesus’ baptism. Like many things here, there is a great deal of disagreement and little certainty regarding the baptismal site of Jesus Christ. One thing can be said for certain, it is the same river. Another thing that can be said for certain is the river is disgusting.
Now, as I have said previously, I have been to the middle east before. One irritating memory of mine was the flies. After my tour in Iraq I despised flies. Since I have been here, the flies have been very tame if not completely absent. Upon leaving the airtight sanctity of our air conditioned tour bus we exited into, not a swarm, but certainly a small posse of flies. They flew around our faces, crawled on our necks, and attacked our eyes. We passed by the gift shop that was selling tourists magnets and postcards and I noticed that most tourists were exiting the shop with oversized t shirts and flip flops. These oversized t shirts had an artistic vision of Jesus being baptized by John the baptist with two angels at his side. The listed price was eight dollars (they were even courteous enough to list the price in dollars as opposed to shekels which hints at their largest customer base for baptizing and re-baptizing) and it appeared to be the most popular item in the area.
As we walked down to the Jordan we noticed more flies. At the top of the stairs we looked below and saw a small creek with concrete steps leading into the water. The “river” was surrounded by reeds, grass, and palm like plants. There was a priest below instructing those seeking baptisms the appropriate procedure. He instructed one young girl the proper procedure as she attempted to leave the river and she promptly reentered to ensure she got it right this time. After plunging into the water three times she gasped for air and turned to face him as he responded with a smile and a thumbs up. I watched as person after person walked into the water.
As I observed each individual enter the water I was thankful that I was Lutheran. As Lutherans we believe in one baptism and despite the significance of this location I certainly did not want to get in that river. The water was disgusting. It looked like the chocolate river in Willy Wonka’s factory. It was abhorrent and disgusting. The flies seemed as attracted to it as those seeking baptism. We took part in a short affirmation of our baptism. When asked whether we believed in Jesus Christ we recited the apostles creed from memory, “I believe in Jesus Christ, God’s only Son our Lord..”. As I recited the words I looked down on the filthy water as I swatted away another fly. I looked across the water which was roped off 1/4 of the way into the water by a black rope/fence clearly marking the Israeli/Jordanian border. The whole situation was similar to my experience at some of the other sites. It felt commercialized and a little unclean
What was unlike the other sites is that this site should be unclean. There was a significant power in the sight of such an unclean place. The construction (which was fairly new) was nice but the water was repulsive and I envisioned God in flesh being baptized in a place not far from Massada (Herod’s luxurious fortress palace) with its luxurious baths. It wasn’t far from Qumran where the Essenes were taking ritual baths at least twice daily to remain pure. This place, however, is where Jesus Christ waded into water contaminated with filth. It was certainly just as muddy and unsanitary then as it is now. Certainly, based on our knowledge of John the baptist others had been baptized before Jesus. Whether it be water contaminated with filth of this earth or the filth of our lives, this is where God of our flesh comes to be baptized.
As I mulled this over in my head I remembered the story and I considered the words “This is my Son, the Beloved, with whom I am well pleased” (Matt. 3:17). I always wondered about these words when I read Matthew. In all the synoptic gospels this is one of the first events leading to Jesus’ ministry. He hadn’t really done anything yet. It is the first event, so as far as the story goes I always wondered, just what has he done to make God so proud at this point? Well, one look at the water and the surrounding luxury of the land and I realized. Israel was certainly an extravagant place. Roman extravagance was a prevalent sight amongst the privileged of that time and place. Yet here in this filth Jesus selects John to baptize him. It is so shocking that John is hesitant to perform the task.
When we completed our short service I took a water bottle and plunged it deep into the water in hopes of capturing not only the water but it’s mud, silt, and filth. I was moved as I pulled the bottle out and held it up to the sun. It was disgusting. A fellow seminarian observed, “Your pretty happy with that filthy water aren’t you?” as I smiled. I assured him I was because it assured me of why I find hope in Christ. Jesus, God made flesh, comes to us and wades into the filth of not only our human existence but our lives in spite of not only his superiority but our inferiority. He wades into our filth, surround by flies, intolerance, mud, hate, stench, and fear. He wades into my filth, not because he has to but because he chose to, in spite of it all. He isn’t the movie action star we wanted he was the Savior the world needed.
Salām, Peace, and Shalom -
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